By Tara Judah

Winding our way through the verdant folds of a mountainous range that conceals the border between Macedonia and Kosovo, I listen with eager intent to a weathered Liverpudlian named Paul. After the usual polite chit-chat, and with miles of winding road before us, we start to talk in earnest. Paul is a natural storyteller and a charismatic character who must have an inner switch that is permanently set to: endear and entertain.